The hairstylist of the hit HBO show dishes beauty secrets from set

By Brittany Talarico
March 21, 2014 07:00 PM

Jessica Miglio/HBO

We had so many questions for Girls‘ lead hairstylist Sherry Heart, we couldn’t fit them all into a 20-minute interview. (Literally, we had to cut our list in half!) Luckily, she was game to share a whole lot about what goes on in the beauty department on set of the hit HBO show, from Shoshanna’s tricked-out mane to Jessa’s hippie tresses.

“My all time favorite hair moment from this season was from episode three when Hannah has a birthday party,” Heart told PEOPLE (see photo above for the looks!). “I was able to do everyone that day — all four girls and other people who were in the scene. I did everyone like they were going to an artsy Williamsburg [Brooklyn] party. It was a lot of fun turning out that much hair that day, and to be creative as I wanted to be. They were all very open to my creative ideas.”

And of course Shosh had the most, er, statement-y hair of the group: four messy top knots going across her head. So what’s the deal behind her wacky looks? “She’s definitely the quirky one of the bunch. She’s animated in her speech and well as her clothes, and we try to do her hair to complement that. It’s her complete and total personality. She’s a girl who’s really original, but not trying to be original. She thinks she has her style all together. She’s really fun to watch and very fun to make up.”

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And every crazy Shosh style is all Zosia Mamet’s real hair, no pieces at all, even with that hybrid faux hawk cornrow creation from Episode 10. For her out-there updos, Heart uses the Conair bunmaker. Even now, with Mamet’s new short style, Heart plans to stick to the no-extensions routine.

“I’m going to totally go with her bob now,” Heart said. “Season 4 hasn’t started yet, but I’ve got some [styles] that I’m working on in my head, and I’m getting the creative picture together. It might be a fun time to play with some Scunci accessories.”

And while Shosh’s styles seem complicated, Heart says they don’t take a long time. “Any hairdos we do … we don’t like to take over a half an hour for anyone. Sometimes it takes me 15 minutes to do Lena!”

Mark Schafer/HBO(4)

As for making Lena Dunham’s pixie work for Hannah, the key to getting some volume is adding a little bit of gel to the roots before blow-drying. To add a signature Hannah touch, Heart adds in flips over the ears.

“I wanted to give her something kind of funny in her hairdo,” Heart shared. “Her characters has a short haircut and doesn’t really know what to do with it, so the messy flips at the end give it that just-ran-you-fingers-through feel. I find myself doing those little things just to match the personality.”

Moving on to Jessa’s just-stepped-off-the-beach strands, Heart said there’s very little work involved in Jemima Kirke’s transformation into her on-screen alter ego.

“Her hair is like a blank canvas, and I’m the artist. You can do just about anything to her hair and she’s really cool with it. She’s a painter herself, I think she understands the artistry behind doing something with your hands.”

And Jemima rarely cuts her tresses. “I think she pretty much gets it trimmed once or twice a year and I know one of those times is by me — the cut I give her at the beginning of each season,” Heart explained. “I like frayed ends and she does too. It gives it that more boho feel. She had a baby after the second season, and she came in the third season and her hair started doing this new twisting thing almost like dreadlocks, but it was like these nice coils of hair. It was so cool. I would just pull apart and get that wave out of it, just add a touch of Bumble and Bumble “Surf Spray.” (Are they looking for a new hair model?)

Lastly, those flawless soft curls that Marnie never leaves home without are just the result of a Hot Tools curling iron. “I always use them in my kits, because they get hotter than a lot of ceramic irons. What I’ll do is wrap her hair around it and then to let it cool I throw the Conair velcro clip rollers in until right before she’s on camera.”

Excited for Sunday’s finale? (Of course you are!) Join Scunci and Heart for a live Twitter party beginning at 9:30 p.m. to get more insight on the season 3 looks. And tell us in the comments: What’s your favorite Girls hair moment?

–Brittany Talarico