Marc Jacobs is no stranger to pushing the envelope at each one of his fashion shows. The designer’s become infamous for his bold — and at times controversial — looks that become some of the most talk-about of New York Fashion Week. Each season, fashion and beauty fanatics set high expectations for Jacobs’ show, after seeing him put everything from gigantic colored dreadlocks to grungy top hats on the top models walking down the runway. So of course, Jacobs closed out NYFW tonight at the Park Avenue Armory by having his diverse cast of models make a statement.
This season, the models’ beauty look was all about the hair (or more accurately, the lack thereof). Returning vets Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid, along with first-time walkers Bella Hadid and Kaia Gerber (who’s also the face of Marc Jacobs Daisy fragrance) strutted down the empty armory in the middle of Manhattan with their hair wrapped in colorful headscarves.
Kendall’s sheer top showed her nipples (a look she sported on her first-ever Marc Jacobs runway). Gigi wore an oversize plaid suit (reminiscent of the ’80s) with a side-swept orange head wrap and Kaia closed out the show in a bright yellow beaded gown with a large floral appliqué at the shoulder, plus formal black tie gloves and a matching black scarf concealing her hair. And instead of the usual sky-high platforms the models are known to wear on the Jacobs’ runway, the designer switched things up with flat Birkenstock-style sandals.
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Jacobs tapped Redken global creative director Guido Palau to “get rid of [the models’] hair” and beautifully drape each head treatment that the designer created with British milliner Stephen Jones, who’s designed radical hats and headpieces for Dior, Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier runway shows.
“The way he is putting it together with the clothes it feels very kind of cool,” Palau said backstage before the show. “It feels a little couture-y but the way the shapes are it [also] feels very sporty, so it’s a great clash of [the] sort of style.”
The lead hairstylist’s job was relatively easy this season, compared to others he’s done with Jacobs in the past. “I use hardware gel, hairspray and water depending on the texture, trying to get it as tight as possible so these wraps sit on the hair comfortably,” Palau said. ” It’s a very old technique that has been around for a long time.”
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Palau said the turban style was inspired by “so many girls in the late ’60s and ’70s” like icons such as Diana Vreeland, Grace Jones, Pat Cleveland and Anjelica Huston. “It was such a big fashion thing back then like girls were using it with a braid or twisting it up,” he said. “You know, that period in fashion.”
And now, Palau thinks the style’s back and here to stay. “I have used scarves quite a lot in editorials lately. [Marc] and I worked together on a beauty shoot before this summer and were using a lot of scarves,” he said. “I’m not so young anymore, but when you speak to young kids 19 to 21 years old, they’re very into hair adornments.”
Keeping most of the attention on the multicolored head wraps and clothing, Jacobs’ lead makeup artist for the show, Diane Kendal, opted for clean makeup featuring cat eyes on every model that were customized to each girls’ eye shape.
“Every girl has eyeliner in the waterline and then with the Marc Jacobs Beauty Magic Marc’er Precision Pen black eyeliner we shape the eye and extend out,” Kendal said backstage. “On some girls we’ve made it a bit thicker on the top and underneath, and on some girls we’re making it more exaggerated on the outer corner.”
Her trick to perfecting a flawless classic cat eye: start with the waterline.
“Follow the line around starting with the waterline and [lower lash line]. I can judge how far to bring it out and then I match the top. Sometimes if I start with the top [and wing] I get a bit lost,” Kendal said.
What do you think about the Marc Jacobs show this season? Share your thoughts in the comments below.