Paul Zimmerman/Getty Images for Hilton Hotels & Resorts
September 12, 2018 02:03 PM

Renowned makeup artist Daniel Martin has worked with some of the most famous faces in Hollywood (and in the royal family!). Now, he’s sharing his industry secrets on how to take one of the most important photos of your life: your passport picture.

In celebration of National Passport Month, Martin teamed up with Hilton Hotels & Resorts for The Passport Project to share his advice for achieving the perfect snap.

“My passport is my lifeline because I travel so much,” Martin — the creative consultant for Honest Beauty, Dior Beauty brand ambassador and a longtime friend of Meghan Markle’s who did her makeup on her wedding day — tells PEOPLE. “It’s such a conversation piece. Why not put your best face forward?

“There’s no big difference between a red carpet image and your passport photo because it’s on-camera flash,” says Martin, who has also worked with Elisabeth Moss and Jessica Alba. “People think they have to wear their makeup differently or do something stronger, but you just have to understand the angle – which is straight on.”

Daniel Martin

“You want to concentrate on the parameter of your face, with a bit of contour on the cheek, a bit more structure in the eye,” he continues. “If you like more of a lip, stick with a red or a berry rather than anything too dark or goth.

“Also, pull in some light into the corner of your eyes with a highlighter, that will open you up.”

As for passport photo don’ts, Martin says: “You don’t want to over powder your face. You want to add a bit of radiance. You can go heavier on the highlighting or do a bit more shaping in the nose if you are a contour person, but keep the middle of your face neutral. You also don’t want to do so much on the center of your cheek. If you love blush, try not to keep is to much on the apple of your cheek, take up to the sides.”

Daniel Martin
Paul Zimmerman/Getty Images for Hilton Hotels & Resorts
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Since helping Meghan achieve her natural look for her wedding day, Martin says he has seen a shift in beauty trends.

“People are starting to embrace their own beauty,” he says. “We’re seeing skin. I understand the fascination and the artistry that you consume on YouTube, but at the end of the day, when you’re outside in daylight, it doesn’t translate. Even on the red carpet, women aren’t wearing that much makeup. It’s about finding that reality.”

Meghan Markle
Mike Egerton/PA Wire

As for Meghan’s beauty evolution, Martin says: “I’ve known her for so long, and to me, she’s always been the same with her makeup. She’s gotten more comfortable doing her own makeup and she’s good at it! She doesn’t stray too far from her technique. She’ll play around with different shades and tones but for the most part, she’s very formulaic with her routine.”

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