On Tuesday the newlyweds went on an early-morning, hour-long mountain trek in Ballyhoura, Ireland, where West, 36, had biked several years ago during a visit for a nearby gig.
“They were clearly enjoying having this time together,” guide Fergal Somers tells PEOPLE. “They were very affectionate and it was obvious they were enjoying the remoteness of the location and the lack of people around.”
“They said to me they loved that the area was untouched by commercialism. They seemed to relish the time and space they had together.” (Guess those spoof photos of the newlyweds camping weren’t that far off after all!)
The bucolic setting in Ireland – where the couple has been honeymooning without 11-month-old daughter North – included “a fantastic chorus of birdsong,” says Somers. “We had an expert local birder along with us and he was able to point out the names of all the birds. I think the bride was really enchanted.”
“We saw rare species like red squirrel, a hen harrier, a fallow deer doe and her calf – it was really magical.”
Naturally, there was also an abundance of local delicacies. (You thought Power Bars would cut it?)
“Mid-morning we had a picnic of local artisan food,” says Somers. “Trekkers’ tart, a kind of quiche, local smoked ham, spiced beef and local Hodgins sausages.”
“I believe the party stopped in a local pub on the way back for a pint of Guinness and heard they left a four-figure tip. They were very nice people, very respectful and very enthusiastic.”
And West had his eye on at least one honeymoon souvenir: He was so taken with his bike that “he offered to buy it and have it shipped back to the U.S.,” says Somers.
For much more on Kim and Kanye’s wedding extravaganza, including exclusive photos and details about her dress, the guest list, the bridal party and more, pick up this week’s issue of PEOPLE, on newsstands Friday
• With reporting by NICOLA BYRNE
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