December 09, 1996 12:00 PM

by Anne Bianchi

In other words, soup—some austere (Peasant’s Wine Soup, made from chestnut flour, wine and water), some idiosyncratic (Rice and Dandelion) and some decidedly robust (Garfagnana Fish Stew). It’s from Garfagnana, in northern Tuscany, that Bianchi has culled her recipes, and her affection for the region is contagious, (ECCO, $25)

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