February 08, 1988 12:00 PM

by Judith and Evan Jones

Judith and Evan Jones have spent “years crisscrossing New England…and found [that] regional cooking doesn’t have to be dully provincial.” Out of their travels they have distilled this eclectic concoction of Yankee cooking. Judith Jones, a former editor for Julia Child, Marcella Hazan and James Beard, co-authored the L.L. Bean Game and Fish Cookbook. Evan has published many books, including American Food: The Gastronomic Story. Both co-wrote Knead It, Punch It, Bake It! Together they present New England cooking that is a “mosaic of ethnic heritage,” blending new cooking tastes with those of colonial times. Among the more than 800 recipes, the classic hasenpfeffer is mixed with the new braised stuffed beefalo flank steak. (Beefalo are a leaner breed of cattle Yankee farmers have raised since the early 1980s.) Fried clams and fisherman’s platters are giving way to more health conscious ways of serving fish—broiled or baked, say, with simple lemon or herbed sauces. Greens such as dandelion shoots and wild milkweed are no longer ignored as ingredients either. The New New England Cookery satisfyingly mixes tradition and innovation. (Random House, $22.50)

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