June 17, 1985 12:00 PM

Tested and annotated by Michael and Judith Hill

Toques off to the translators, who have neatly adapted the specialties of the acclaimed Restaurant Girardet, set in the toylike Swiss village of Crissier, near Lausanne. The master chef’s dishes are not complicated, once the sometimes taxing preparations have been made, but they are haute caloric and cater to the generous budget (e.g., asparagus tips shrouded in oyster mousseline sauce, crayfish bouillon flecked with dill and caviar). Not everyone is a culinary genius who can lend his own inspired touch to a limp lettuce leaf. But Fredy lets us pretend. (Morrow, $17.95)

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