October 25, 1982 12:00 PM

by Jean-Paul Goude

Goude, 38, is a Parisian who was Esquire’s art editor in 1969-1976, a period when the magazine was at its graphic height. He is also a photographer, artist, remodeler of people and a feminist’s nightmare. His specialty is finding black women to become both his mates and his models. For one of them he designed a nose job. Another he dressed and photographed so she would appear ultratall. He talked a third, whom he called “Toukie,” into having a mold made of her body, then added exaggerated buttocks to the mannequin. Goude has put his current project, model-singer Grace Jones, into a crew cut and an image either sexless or voraciously sexy, depending on your point of view. Not everyone will be as interested in Goude’s fantasies and real life as he shows himself to be in this illustrated autobiography. What kind of artist he is is open to question, but he does have a striking visual sense, and his perverse and demeaning “creations” probably have to be reckoned with. As he writes of Jones, “You are constantly looking at her and wondering if she’s beautiful or grotesque, or both, and how can she be one if she’s the other?” (Xavier Moreau, $32.50)

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