Picks and Pans Review: Baja Oklahoma
HBO (Sat., Feb. 20, 8 p.m. ET)
I hate restaurant reviews that spend forever describing the atmosphere before mentioning the food. But that’s the only way to review Baja Oklahoma, for it has loads of atmosphere and not a lot of meat. Baja is set in Texas, in a grungy roadside dive populated by crazy characters like Swoosie Kurtz, as a loose woman, and singer Billy Vera as a singer. You see men driving pick-up trucks and women sweating in skimpy bras; yes, it looks like Texas. You hear Willie Nelson and Emmylou Harris singing; it sounds like Texas. Now for the plot: Lesley Ann Warren plays an unhappy, unsuccessful songwriter who tends bar and only wants to sell a song and fall in love. Then Peter Coyote helps her do both. End of story. Yup, this joint looks nice. But you’ll leave hungry.